When to Decorate?
There is no single "right" time to decorate. Different makers want different things: a single fun session (date night), a two-evening process, precise fine-detail painting, or the traditional fired workflow. Below are the four common pathways, what you can do at each stage, the real trade-offs, and helpful tips so you can pick confidently.
Path A — Wet Greenware (Decorate Immediately)
When: Right after you shape the piece, while clay is still soft.
What you can do: Underglaze painting, add handles/charms/letters, score & slip attachments, texture & carving.
Why people choose it: Perfect for date nights and group events — everything gets done in one session and the creative energy stays high.
Real risks & fixes: Wet clay is floppy and can deform if over-handled. Underglaze applied now can be slightly more prone to chipping after firing (because the clay shrinks as it dries). This is not a deal-breaker — chips can be touched up with underglaze later if needed.
Practical tips:
- Use multiple thin coats (2–3) rather than one thick coat to reduce chipping and uneven drying.
- When attaching handles/charms, score both surfaces, use generous slip, and fully blend seams. Support the piece from inside while you work.
- Work on a stable, padded surface and avoid excessive picking up.
Best for: Quick, social sessions or beginners wanting everything in one night.
Path B — Leather-Hard (Our Go-To / Best Balance)
When: Usually 1–3 days after forming, when clay feels firm and "leathery." Cover loosely with plastic to dry slowly.
What you can do: Underglaze painting, attach handles/charms/letters, carve, refine edges, scrape mistakes.
Why people choose it: Leather-hard is the sweet spot — stable enough to hold shape but still moist enough to attach and correct. We decorate our Beleza Curated pieces at this stage because it gives professional, consistent results.
How to reach leather-hard: Loosely cover pieces with plastic (cut garbage bags are fine). This slows the drying and helps you hit the leather-hard window; thickness, room temperature, and humidity affect timing. The clay typically retains ~15% water at this stage.
Practical tips:
- Test with a fingernail in a hidden spot — it should leave a mark but not sink easily.
- Apply underglaze in thin layers; you can sponge or scrape off mistakes gently.
- Plan it as a two part event: take your time sculpting and creating the first night, then have another evening to unleash your decorative creativity.
Best for: Makers who want attachments and control without fragility — ideal middle ground.
Path C — Bone Dry (Final Unfired Stage)
When: 10+ days (or longer depending on thickness and humidity). Piece is completely dry, room-temp, and very fragile.
What you can do: Underglaze painting only (no attachments). This is the last stage where you can decorate before applying the Gloss (air-dry varnish).
Why people choose it: Bone dry soaks pigment immediately, allowing very smooth, brushstroke-free coverage and fine detail work. Great for illustration-style painting, washes, and gradients.
Risks & handling: Extremely fragile — treat like an eggshell. If you drop it, it will likely shatter. Minor mistakes can be carefully scraped or sanded, but proceed gently.
Practical tips:
- Work on a padded surface and support pieces from underneath.
- Apply 2–3 thin coats of underglaze and allow to dry between coats.
- If using Gloss, make sure underglaze is fully dry — Gloss requires a 4-day cure to reach full hardness and water resistance after application.
Best for: Detail-focused painting and the final chance to decorate for anyone planning the Gloss finish at home.
Path D — After Bisque Firing (Traditional Workflow)
When: After the first kiln firing (bisque firing).
What you can do: Underglaze painting only (no attachments or carving). Then apply clear 'Glaze' and final glaze-fire.
Why people choose it: Bisque gives a sturdy, forgiving surface — you can hold pieces confidently, sand mistakes, and paint without fear of breakage.
Practical tips:
- Clean dust off with a barely-damp sponge before painting.
- Mistakes can be sanded off after underglaze dries, then repainted.
- Remember to check kiln costs and schedules; firing fees vary by location.
Best for: A high quality underglaze finish you can feel safe painting without damaging.
Quick Decision Guide
Want everything finished tonight?
→ Wet greenware
Want attachments plus more control?
→ Leather-hard
Want the smoothest painting experience?
→ Bone dry
Want maximum durability and mistake-forgiveness?
→ Bisque
Rules & Studio Essentials
Attachments (handles/charms/letters): only at wet or leather-hard.
Once Glossed, you cannot fire — the varnish will burn in a kiln and potentially cause damage. Decide before you Gloss.
Always use thin coats: 2–3 thin layers of underglaze/glaze — never one thick coat.
Dry slowly & evenly: cover loosely to avoid cracking. Avoid direct heat or drafts.
Label pieces: if you're doing several pieces/stages, mark bases with initials and stage (eg. "L-H" for leather-hard).
Try test pieces: practice each stage on a small scrap so you can see how colour and finish change after firing or Gloss.
Mistakes are fixable: wet/leather-hard can be scraped/wiped; bone dry can be scraped/sanded carefully; bisque can be sanded and repainted.