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Coiling

The coiling method is one of the oldest and most adaptable techniques in pottery. By stacking and blending long, rope-like coils of clay, you can build forms of any size or shape—from delicate cups to sculptural vessels. Coiling is slow, meditative, and very versatile, giving you full control over thickness, contour, and texture.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Time: 30-60 minutes

Technique: Handbuilding

What You Need

Clay

Large rolling surface

Knife or pin tool

Score tool & slip

Wooden modeling tool

Sponge & water

Plastic sheet (for drying)

Step-by-Step

Roll the Coils

Start with a small lump of clay and roll it into a snake-like coil using your palms (not fingertips) pressing lightly and evenly as you roll back and forth. Move your hands outward from the center in a zigzag motion to prevent flat spots. Aim for a consistent thickness (¼–½ inch / 6–12 mm).
Build the Base

Either spiral a coil into a flat disc and blend the joins, or cut a slab circle as your base. Compress with your thumb or wood tool for strength.
Score & Slip

Scratch the edges where coils will join, brush on slip, and press the first coil firmly onto the base.
Blend & Compress

After placing each coil, blend the inside seam upward with your fingers or wood tool. Compress down and outward along the join — this strengthens the bond and removes trapped air.
Continue Building

Add coils one by one, scoring and slipping each layer. To shape your vessel, place coils slightly inside the rim for inward curves or slightly outside for outward flare.
Strategic Pausing

For larger forms, pause occasionally to let the lower section stiffen to leather-hard before adding more height. This prevents sagging.
Refine the Form

Smooth with a wood tool or sponge for a sleek finish, or leave the coil texture visible for a natural, handcrafted look.
Finish the Rim

When you reach the top, compress and round the rim for strength. Optionally, add a final coil as a decorative edge or base for a lid.
Dry Slow

Coil pieces tend to be slightly thicker meaning extra care should be taken when drying. Place under plastic (cut up bin bags work great!) and out of direct sunlight and drafts.

Studio Secrets

→ Moisture matching: Fresh coils must match the dampness of the existing work. If the base feels drier, mist it lightly before attaching.

→ Compress constantly: Each joined coil should be firmly pressed and blended to align the clay particles — this prevents cracks during firing.

→ Build directionally: Place coils on the inner edge to curve inward or outer edge to flare outward — this gives you total control of the form.

→ Support tall builds: Use foam, paper, or internal coils for structure if walls start to slump.

→ Creative finishes: Try burnishing leather-hard surfaces for a polished sheen or adding a foot ring for a more refined look.

Helpful Fixes

Cracks at joins

Usually from dryness or weak blending. Rehydrate, re-score, and compress the seam thoroughly.

S-cracks in base

Caused by uneven compression or drying. Always compress your base spiral and dry slowly.

Walls sagging or collapsing

The clay may be too wet or built too fast. Let lower sections firm up before continuing.

Uneven shape

Use templates or ribs to guide curves and maintain symmetry.

Coils drying out

Cover unused coils with plastic or damp cloth until ready to attach.

Quick Checklist

Roll even coils (¼–½ inch thick)

Score, slip, and compress each layer

Match moisture levels between coils

Shape directionally (inward/outward)

Let sections firm up for large builds

Smooth or leave textured surface

Compress rim to finish

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